Today I’m going to be showing you how to true a hub motor. That’s got this front hub motor that was never really done well together again with its a cheap hub motor from BMS battery. Let’s start here to solve the issue.
Truing Stand Use
If you have a truing stand that you can take your hub motor out and put it in the stand and that’s great, but you don’t actually need a truing stand.
I’m going to show you how you can just flip your bike over and then true your hub motor while it’s still on the bike.
Start by just freely spinning the wheel and checking to see how much side-to-side play there is and If there’s a lot like in mind here, you’re probably going to need to open up the brakes.
Go ahead and open those up. Next, take a plastic cable tie and cinch it around the fork or the frame of the bike and make sure that you have it lined up so that it’s at the same height as the rim of the wheel.
Now you want to cut your cable-tied just to the point where it’s touching the rim. Then you can sort of twist it around the frame to adjust the distance from the rim.
Then when you spin the wheel and it’s going to act as a sort of depth gauge so you can check how close or far away the rim is and as the wheels spinning around.
If you want learn more check how to true a bike wheel quickly.
This will let you see how far out of true the wheel actually is. Now this touring process will make more sense.
If we know how these spokes work, the spoke is basically a long bolt and then you’ve got this special nut called a nipple.
It goes on the other end now the spoke just screws right into the nipple, just like a bolt screws into a nut.
The spoke actually pulls on the rim and creates tension through the spoke. In this case, these spokes are laced radially, which means they go straight out to the rim.
What would it be better is to actually have a cross lacing where the spokes cross each other? But what can you do?
This is just the way it came. Now, when it comes to tools, you’re going to need a spoke wrench. I have these specific spoke wrenches that come for each size and I also have this universal spoke wrench.
Which I actually prefer because I don’t have to go around looking for each different size of a spoke wrench, but you’ll need one of these types to work on your spokes.
Spoke Points Fix
You have to need to look right here at the cable tie while I spin the rim and you can see how the rim is moving away from the cable tie in some places.
So you want to look for the area where it’s the farthest away and It seems to be in this region. You have to need to find a point or a belt.
The farthest possible away from the ramp seems to be about here about it and this spoke really. So what you need to do is to tighten the spokes on this side of the hub.
You don’t need to tighten the other side cause that will push the rim further away and pull it away then you have to pull it towards the cable time.
So I’m going to tighten this spoke because it’s on the side of the rim and that is closest to that cable type.
So now I’m going to skip one spoke and then do the next one and that way I’m staying on this side of the rent.
So now it’s time to test again and after that first adjustment and see where my new highest spot is, it looks like it’s in the same region here.
It seems like the middle’s about right where this vent is actually or the valve rather. So that’s pretty convenient for us.
If it’s really added out of true then you might have to go and you know a full turn our turn and a half. It looks like we actually made some progress and you know it’s still out of true, but it’s closer than it was.
Now that we’ve made some adjustments on one side of the bike wheel and we’re going to come around to the other side and you have to need to do that same trick with a cable tie.
Now you have to need to look on this side of the wheel and look for the area that seems to be the farthest away from that new cable tie there.
It seems to be about these two spokes here. So let’s going to count and there are five spokes on this side.
So you have to count back let’s do three this way and need to tighten up five spokes and now you notice the spokes that go to the other side of the hub because you are trying to pull it to the other side of the bike.
It’s known this is going to be a third spoke here. So, I’m taking these about a, about half a turn or so again the amount just really depends on how far it seems like the wheels out of true.
So these aren’t so bad on this side so we’ll do about half a term and now if I bring in for the close look, this is actually quite good.
It’s by no means perfect, but that’s less than a millimeter of side to side out of trueness and which is quite good.
Now there’s actually one more aspect of trueness we need to look at and that’s the wheel hop.
Except there seems to be this one jump and just sort of at one spot here. So I’m going to see if I can come and find.
Exactly where that chump is that might be a bit of an issue because it’s so sharp. That’s gonna be a little hard to fix. It seems like it’s right here in here somewhere if we can find it exactly.
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